Climbing Kilimanjaro V

Day one: Marangu gate headquarters to Mandara hut. 12 km, 5 hours walking, 1700 m to 2700 m (altitude gain 1000m), 1:12 gradient. (7.5 miles, 5,577 ft to 8,858 ft)

The team at the park headquarters sign at the start of the trek

We load up two ancient vehicles with ourselves and our gear and drive about 4 miles to the park entrance. We sign in, have a group photo taken at the entrance sign, and we are on our way. The first day is through a lovely old growth rainforest (2,000 mm rain per year, 79 inches), in shade, warm humid air, and Spanish moss and epiphytes hanging from the trees. The trail is of dirt and rocks and a few wooden bridges over small streams. The trail is wide enough for two persons to walk side by side. It is a very relaxing beautiful walk and we are encouraged to take each day slowly to assist in acclimatization (besides there is nothing to do at the huts once there). John the head guide and Dave. John is carrying our lunches and a sack for collecting rubbish on the trail

But Luiz and I find ourselves in the lead nearly instantly, even though we both feel we are walking excruciatingly slowly. It’s worse for Luiz because his legs are twice as long as mine (I tell him I am actually walking twice as far as he is). I expected Julie and Brett to be in the lead since they are both very ambitious young guns but they were no doubt conserving themselves for the summit attempt. Not only that but they took a print or digital photo every three steps so the mountain is now fairly well mapped.

Pammie and Luiz in the front
We fall into four buses: Luiz and myself, then Dave and Andrew, then Suzette, Johann, and Hennie chirping away in Afrikaans, then Brett, Julie, and Tracy in the rear. Julie and Tracy are in a water drinking competition and drink about 5 litres per day each which requires frequent toilet stops. There are little kids on the lower slopes asking for candies or pens, unfortunately many foreign tourists give them gifts and now they are addicted to it. We hear the sound of wood collectors in the forest also, this is legal. On the trail, day one. Suzette giving Johann a big smile
At around 12 we begin to encounter the first climbers descending the mountain, nearly all of them look surprisingly clean and refreshed, and a considerable amount of them are the frail transparent type you’d think would never attempt something like this. There are a few extremely despondent people. I’m afraid to ask people if they succeeded, in case they hadn’t. I mention this to the others behind us and they say they have been asking everyone how they went. So if the person looks receptive I will ask them and we get a few rapturous tales of their adventures and advice. On the trail in beautiful rainforest

We have lunch from our packed lunch sacks at a picnic area with benches and a toilet. We arrive at Mandara hut at around 3 pm where the porters eventually greet us with warm water for washing, and set out coffee, tea, and popcorn and biscuits in the mess hall. Some of the others continue on up the path to have a look at a small cinder cone, I conserve my strength (besides I’ve seen a bunch of craters). We are all so committed to doing everything possible to facilitate our success that we walk very slowly, drink lots of water, scarf down any food set in front of us (also rejecting anything slightly dodgy looking, just in case of food poisoning), and go to sleep at 7 pm. Suzette hates drinking water

There’s no way that old guy’s gunna make it:

Hennie is walking up the trail with Suzette & Johann and his mop of white hair is sweaty, and he must look like he’s struggling. A few climbers going down the trail pass them and once they think they are out of earshot, comment: “there’s no way that old guy’s gunna make it”. This comment rings in Hennie’s ears for the rest of the hike and is oft repeated.

Dr Hennie and Suzette

Climbing Kilimanjaro IV

The route:

There are eight different routes up the mountain radiating along the southern approach from east to west, only two approach from the north. We chose the Marangu Route, which approaches the mountain from the south east, and is the most popular route and thus nicknamed the Coca Cola route and deemed “easy” and “not strenuous” and “the least attractive route” by those who have not attempted the climb on this route. The hotel owners assured us that there is nothing second class about the route and certainly nothing easy about it. They say that they are upset by the negative image given to this route by the guide books and say that the bad reputation was started by guides working on the western routes, as more annoying paperwork is required on the Marangu route, so they want to begin the climb on the western side.

Pammie waiting for the others to complete check in procedures at the Park entrance.

Certainly several people at work and a few members of the South African hiking club gave me a hard time for attempting Kilimanjaro on the Coca Cola route. This was before I knew the differences in the routes, so my answer to them was, why should one attempt to spend more time and effort on a mountain than necessary? The other routes require more days and are not hut based, therefore more gear is required, and more porters, and thus the trip costs more money, additionally, an extra day at altitude might equate into an extra day’s headache. Why make my life difficult? There is $700 at stake here, I don’t want to throw it away! If I want to go on a hike to look at flowers and catch butterflies, I shall do it at a lower altitude and at less cost, and without a headache!

Dr Hennie, Johann, Brett, Pammie, Suzette, and Tracy in their jammies collecting filtered water at Mandara Hut, Day 1.

My clothes & gear:

Lightweight supposedly waterproof Hi-Tec hiking shoes (never put to the water test), several pairs of thick socks, several pairs of thin socks. Four pairs long johns pants, four pairs long johns shirts, one pair shorts (worn the first two days, on the third day I wore long johns because my legs were getting sunburned, but would have preferred the shorts). Two pairs polar-plus pants (one pair never worn), one pair polar plus tights with atomic strength waistband. One jersey, one t-shirt, one regular weight woolen sweater, one polar plus jacket, one gortex shelled polar plus jacket, Gortex pants, Gortex outer shell, one down jacket never used. Thin pair of gloves, heavy outer gloves (these were thrown in at the last minute and I was very glad to have them), polar plus beanie, woolen beanie. Own sleeping bag, silk inner liner sheet, pillow case.

Pammie's pack on the top bunk at Mandara Hut, Day 1

If it sounds like a lot, it did to me too. I asked the lady who checked my stuff and she said, better too much stuff than not enough. This is also my general philosophy in life although this attitude is changing now that I am paying for my own house moving costs. I also wonder whether my porter agrees with this policy...

Pammie holding staff outside Mandara Hut, morning of Day 2, with Dr Hennie, Luiz, Brett, Dave, and Andrew.

Sunglasses, reluctantly borrowed sunscreen, borrowed wooden staff (I fanatically despise carrying things in my hands and resisted the dreaded staff but my friend Sandy persuaded me to try it. I used a wooden staff with metal tip provided by the hotel and it was indispensable and one of my best friends on the mountain, although it did make my right hand get sunburnt and cold (normally I just keep my hands up in my jacket sleeves and never wear gloves). At our orientation meeting we were advised to select a staff that came up to the middle of our chest, the better to rest on it on summit day, and it came in very handy for this.

Porters outside Horombo Hut, the morning of Day 2

I wore a regular book bag sized backpack for water, warm weather gear, rain gear (luckily it never rained on us, but I used the gortex on the summit day for extra warmth and to keep out the wind, but we were lucky and it was always clear and never windy), snacks, digital camera (I took very few photographs, but the others took brilliant ones. Two 500 ml Nalgene water bottles, one 1 litre Nalgene water bottle. I had troubles with my water freezing on the summit attempt, the others carried canteens inside their jackets which kept them warmer, but ultimately we found that drinking water made us nauseous on the summit attempt and so it wasn’t a problem. Not a slip of paper extra beyond what was required in my daypack. Headlamp for nighttime summit attempt.

Dr Hennie laughing at Johann taking a photo of my unusual walking gear: long johns to keep the sun from burning my legs, but with the label showing. According to popular opinion the long johns were inside out. I think they were right.

Tea towel for face and hand washing, small slivers of soap, small toothpaste, toothbrush, contacts, contact lens solution, Diamox, Ibuprofen, malaria prophylactic tablets, malaria treatment medication, bandaids, mirror, spare batteries, map. Snacks included chocolate bars (never ate), instant soup, hot chocolate with marshmallows, rice krispies marshmallow cookies, red hot tamales (never ate and now they are all welded together), macadamia brittle, cashew nougat, Berocca fizzy vitamin tablets for drinking water, never used, 1 litre thermos for soup, never used, since they provided us with soup at dinner anyway and I was afraid of carrying the extra weight. My porter Richard carried nearly all my snacks up and down the mountain again, including the thermos. I gave him one chocolate bar (he wouldn’t know what white chocolate is, right?), and ate only the marshmallow cookies and the macadamia brittle for snacks.

Porters carrying our gear past our first view of the summit of Kibo. There are two volcanoes within Kilimanjaro: Kibo, which is higher, and Mawenzi, which is harder to climb.

Climbing Kilimanjaro III

Cost:

US$700, about half go to park fees (for four days up, 1 day down, 4 nights in huts), the other half goes to the hotel who provide all the support and salaries for the crew. In addition the head guide gets a $50 tip, the assistant guides $30, and the porters $20. Persons feeling particularly grateful for extra personal attention will give additional tips at their discretion. Hotel accommodation is $30 including a full course country style dinner and breakfast. Hotel grounds are beautiful with a restaurant, shop, bar, gardens, and simple cottage style accommodation.

Dave, Andrew, and Brett in the gardens of Marangu Hotel

Food on the mountain:

Breakfast consists of tea, coffee, cocoa, milo. Cornflakes, papaya, bananas, hard boiled eggs, bread and butter and peanut butter or jam or honey. Sausages, tomatoes, and cucumbers. No one is going hungry here.

Having tea upon arrival at Mandara Hut, Day 1

Lunch is in a packed bag and eaten at picnic rest stops, consisting of two sandwiches, carrots, bananas, and a cookie, tea and coffee.
Breakfast at Mandara Hut, Day 2

Afternoon tea on arrival at the hut is popcorn, cookies, and drinks.

Lunch on the way to Horombo Hut, Day 2

Dinner is anything from steak and fried potatoes, to pasta, baked beans and chips, stewed vegetables, cabbage, soup, bread, and fruit or biscuits for dessert. I’d heard horror stories about the food on the mountain and we were very pleasantly surprised.


Dinner at Horombo Hut, Day 2

Everyone carries personal snacks, Suzette & Johann have about a suitcase full of energy bars. There is no shortage of food whatsoever.

Dave enjoying dinner at Horombo Hut, Day 2

All photos by Julie, Brett, and Johann

Climbing Kilimanjaro

The team:

Suzette de Winnaar, a 48 year old South African buyer from the purchasing department, and her husband

Johann, a 48 year old electrician, both runners and keen squash players. Suzette has been talking about climbing Kili since we got here in early 2000. The three of us spent the previous week together on safari.

Suzette and Johann with Dave and Dr Hennie to the left and right

Julie Shuttleworth, an ambitious upper 20’s Australian metallurgist and now plant superintendent, wall climber, and hiker. We also worked together at Telfer. Suzette spoke to Julie who took the initiative in organizing the climb, and she and I researched a few outfitters and decided on Marangu Hotel.

Julie’s dad Dave, an English fitter, about 64, and survivor of two heart attacks whilst cycling. Deaf as a post but very friendly with a good sense of humour, and was always talking to other climbers.


Julie and Dave Shuttleworth on the Bulyanhulu airstrip

Dave’s Australian friend Andrew, a medical doctor, also the same age, saved Dave’s life twice. Very quiet and takes advantage of Dave’s deafness by taking the piss out of him while he can’t hear.
Andrew and Dave at Marangu Hotel

Brett Thomson, an Australian upper 20’s mill rat, also into wall climbing, very fit, and a scuba
instructor.

Brett’s Australian sister Tracy, in her early 30’s, in real estate. Very chirpy and fit right in.

Brett and Julie Thomson on the Bulyanhulu Dash airplane

Dr. Hennie van Staden, a 50 year old Namibian medical doctor, eccentric, bachelor. Probable misanthropist, but surprised me with his charming personality in our company. He instantly endeared himself to me on the first day by saying I had the loveliest accent he’d ever heard (he’s been to every country on the planet except for Corsica, so he knows his accents…). This was before the swearing started, no doubt he’s changed his mind since.

Dr Hennie with Suzette to the right

Luiz Correia, a 41 year old Portuguese descent South African, former plant superintendent, now continuous improvement coach who lists his occupation as ----, also into running, sailing, and squash.

Myself. My preparation for the hike included running 46 km per week in the last days and eating steak for dinner every day for a week before the climb to boost red blood cells. Grrr!!!

Luiz and Pammie at dinner at Marangu Hotel

Kilimanjaro

The support:

Our guides were provided by the Marangu Hotel, located at the foot of Kilimanjaro, in the village of Marangu. The hotel has been guiding since 1932, the owner Desmond was born in Tanzania and first climbed Kilimanjaro at age 14. All staff at the hotel including receptionists have either attempted or climbed the mountain so that all are familiar with what lies ahead, and know exactly what the word “hard” means. The hotel provided intensive information via email and a 2 hour orientation meeting at the hotel dealing with issues ranging from altitude sickness (headaches, nausea, loss of appetite, dehydration, pulmonary and cerebral edema), sun protection, food, high altitude medication (Diamox), Tanzanian etiquette, what to expect on each day, how best to approach the climb physically and mentally, etc. Desmond tells us that on average 30% of the people fail to reach the top but their business has kept a database for years and the hotel has a success rate of 87% to the crater rim and 70% to the summit (the actual highest point on the mountain is a 210 m high bump on the rim of the crater). People most likely to fail are athletes and teenagers, because athletes push themselves too hard, and teenagers lack the discipline. An interesting psychological note is that the hotel only quotes recent successes and makes no mention of failures.

Suzette and Pammie listen to Desmond of Marangu Hotel during the orientation lecture


All of the Bulyanhulu group are concerned about malaria since we notice many mosquitoes (malaria is endemic to our area and a huge problem at the mine), but apparently there is no malaria here. Local knowledge has it that “traveling” is the cause of malaria.

Porters and support staff at Marangu Hotel lined up with our gear

The hotel lends out climbing gear free of charge as required, from sleeping bags, canteens, jackets, clothes, blankets, walking sticks, back packs, etc. Staff inspect your gear and provide extras where necessary.

The team: Jules, Pammie, Dr Hennie, Andrew, Suzette, Dave, Tracy, Luiz, and Brett kneeling. Johann is behind the camera most of the time.

John is the head guide, and has climbed Kilimanjaro over 100 times. He is in his upper 40’s but looks much older, and has the face of a gorilla (a nice gorilla though). Alternate guides are Kamili and Faustino, brothers, around age 60 or so they look, who have climbed the mountain over 350 times. It took me till the third day to realize they were two different people. Last alternate guide is Thomas, in his upper 20’s. There are 21 Tanzanian staff in total, the remainder being porters and cooks (one porter for each climber). The porters carry all our climbing gear, food, cooking utensils, and some water. We only carry small day packs with rain gear, warm clothes, water for the day, cameras, and snacks. Together there are 31 of us on the mountain and we are far and away the best looked after, particularly at meal times.

Pammie and Brett during the packing

Last Email from Barcelona

We haven't done too much stuff today, went to a weird museum in a very nice building but with art by a Spanish guy we had never heard of, Antoni Tapies. Didn't like his stuff, which was kind of angry and industrial and uncomfortable looking, but the museum was nice and curated well. Then we walked down to the contemporary art museum but it was closed. So we've done a lot of walking and pottering around and seem to have had a big day but haven't accomplished much. We did find a good pair of shoes for me and a nice skirt for Cailli though!

The Antoni Tapies museum, which Cailli noticed because of the barbed wire sculpture on the roof, which should have been a tip off to his style, but we didn't know any better at that stage.

Tomorrow we will go back to the contemporary art museum and then go to Gaudi´s Sagrada Familia. That's our last full day and those are the two other big items on our list. We are in a weird Chinese internet cafe, very smokey, I am on a very bad keyboard, so I won't write much!

Detail on the door of Antoni Gaudi's La Sagrada Familia

The flamenco guitar was okay, there was a guy doing the singing shouting thing like the Gypsy Kings, then a lady came out and danced for a bit, but the best part was just watching the locals in the audience following the music. The band had an acoustic guitar, violin, a singer/shouter, electric guitar, and a percussion drum thing which was very neat, just a square box that the guy sat on and patted the front between his legs. It had a cool sound, we saw a drum shop today and had a look at them, too bad I don't play drums.

Antonio Gaudi's La Sagrada Familia, still being built after all of these years.

Interior of the Contemporary Art Museum, Barcelona




Pammie's shopping loot, which includes: drinks coasters, a bullfight poster, three silver rings, a coin purse, three Korean Pucca purses, three pairs of Camper shoes, a nice watch which I haven't figured out how to change the time on yet, three bowls for serving chips and olives, and a waiter's bag for Joe.

Hello from Barcelona

We had a huge day yesterday. First we walked up to the Joan Miro museum. I was very hungry for my lunch by the time we finished, so we found a place along Las Ramblas which had seafood paella, a tourist trap joint but still okay, with a jug of cold sangria to go with. We then headed on to the Picasso museum which was very good. He lived out this way for several years and donated something like 2,500 pieces of art to the museum. It shows work from all of the different periods of painting he did over his life. He started when he was 9 years old and actually was a very good portraitist. I made a memorable quote to Cailli that Picasso could paint quite well when he wanted to. Anyways there were no particularly famous paintings at the museum but it was a good history of his work.

Hams for sale in a shop in Barcelona

Then while we were walking along Las Ramblas, a big group of bicyclists went past, all nude. Yowch, that just has to hurt. So we have seen some reasonably weird stuff. Saw the nude bikies, then a while later rounded a corner and saw a massive group of old people standing in little rings of about 8 people, all holding hands and holding them up high, and doing some weird pogo stick dance jumping up and down in place to a Germanic sounding band. There was a booth with a bunch of trophies too so I guess the most stylish pogostickers must get points and a trophy.

Wrought iron detail outside a Gaudi apartment building. Gaudi's father was an ironmonger.

After dinner we were walking back along Las Ramblas and heard a crowd of people running up behind us and shouting and screaming. In front of us, another crowd running towards us and shouting and screaming. All wearing red and green and white and wearing flags and yelling numbers over and over. The two groups of screamers met right where Cailli and I were standing, and they were just gleeful, jumping up and down, waving their flags and jumping and yelling. We figured the Mexicans must have won their World Cup game against the Iranians, which they had, we saw it on the news later, I think it was 3-1 or 4-1, and they were shouting the score over and over again. It was fun to watch, they were so happy.

Art Nouveau building. Note detail under overhang at the top right.

Today we did a huge walking tour of all of the Gaudi buildings including the Park Guell, and then some modernista stuff, which is Art Nouveau to everyone else. A big day walking, then to celebrate Cailli's birthday, and my new job, and went to a very flash restaurant, I think it's the nicest Cailli's ever been to. We started out with a glass of champagne, then they gave us a bunch of complimentary appetisers, like a little mussle with seawater gelatin, then some interesting little nibblies. For my starter I had steak tartare with two potato french fries, Iranian caviar, and mustard. And for my main, caramelised veal cheek with bean foam. They did quite a few foamy things, Cailli had some kind of cod foam and cheese foam, which she liked. Then for dessert I had sage sorbet with honey fettucine and seagrass soup. A little weird.

Gaudi's Casa Mila apartment building

So now we are a bit sleepy and dopey, finished our tour of the modernista stuff, and are headed to look at some more buildings in a bit. Tomorrow we will hit a few more museums. I think we will also go to a flamenco show one evening. We still have two full days to fill up. It's quite cool here, lots of good architecture, interesting shops and restaurants and cafes and things, and the weather has been perfect, blue skies, dry, warmish but with a breeze to cool things down. And our hotel is very nice with a very good air conditioning system and some very fluffy blankets and pillows so I can snuggle under the covers and breathe cool air but still be warm.

Barcelona (June 2006)

Not too many transport dramas to report today, got to the hotel in Barcelona at around 1 pm, Cailli didn't land till 1:45 so thought I would check in and make sure everything was cool. I had telephoned to make the reservation about 7 weeks ago and emailed to confirm, but you never know....I was particularly worried they would try to put us in a room with one bed (I don't share beds with girls even if they are my best friend!). I had stayed in this hotel the first night I arrived and wasn't particularly impressed...there are so many cute hotels in Spain and this one is kind of boring, and grey, and boring, and... just grey.

An outdoor bird market on Las Ramblas, Barcelona

Well I got there, and they tell me there is a problem with the reservation and they are moving us to another hotel for tonight and then for the next four nights we can come back. I am very annoyed because it's a hassle packing and unpacking, and also, Cailli and I in the meantime had been searching for a better hotel but couldn't come up with one, after turning down a better and less expensive hotel because they only had four nights accommodation after which we would have had to change to another. And here we are in the very same situation but in a more expensive, boring, and grey hotel. Hmph. I said that wasn't very nice, as I had made the reservation 7 weeks ago and they should have let me know. They don't wanna hear about it. It's the same price, what's my problem. Hmph.

Spookey creatures from the sea at Barcelona markets

So off we march to the new hotel which turns out to be absolutely beautiful and modern and extremely cool! Yowza. I ask can we stay there the whole five nights for the same price? His eyes light up and he says yes. Yay! For the same price as the grey hotel! So I call up the grey hotel and tell 'em to get naffed. So now we are staying at this very nice hotel at a very good price! So it's turned out well. We stumbled upon these Catalonia dancers outside the Barcelona cathedral. A bizarre sight when you are not expecting it.

So Cailli didn't get in till nearly 4 pm which is the latest they will serve lunch here. So we walked her luggage to a restaurant I had scouted out near the metro while I was waiting for her, then we hit our favourite Spanish shoe shop, Camper, and I got, um, two pairs of shoes! Cailli still had her suitcase with her. We checked her into the hotel and she likes it too. So far all we have done is walk down Las Ramblas to see all the street performers and went into the food markets which have fantastic displays of very exotic fruits and all kinds of bizarre seafood. Then we went to see the cathedral, on the way there we saw tickets on sale for a Concierto de Aranjuez, with Manuel Gonzalez, said to be the best guitarist of Spanish music, who has played at the Lincoln Center in NYC and other happening places. So we have tickets to see that tomorrow night. Gaudi's Parc Guell in Barcelona

So we have plotted up which museums we want to see, then on Monday when all the museums are shut we will do a guided architectural tour of the Gaudi buildings. So should be a lot of fun! We are out of here on Thursday so we have lots of time to explore. Parc Guell

And it is very fun with Cailli here, I'm taking more photos and of course it's fun to have her to talk to, she's very easy going and a good companion.

Hello from Sitges (June 2006)

Well I made it to Sitges, which is a beach resort about 30 minutes south of Barcelona. It's very hip with the gay community, I should have known better and spent more time here rather than Benidorm. This place is very cool with lots of neat shops and restaurants and things. And the weather has been nice and clear blue skies this whole time which has been good too. Still haven't made it down to see the beach, because now that the bad, bad laundry man has all of the bottom half of my clothes I tragically had to go and get some replacements!! Got some nice half shorts half pants things that will look good enough to wear to work in the summer, or on a mine somewhere where it's hot.

Salt cod hanging in the window in San Sebastian. Pammie in reflection; skirt now in the possession of the bad, bad laundryman.

Getting here was a bit of a drama. I had to get on the bus at 8:55 AM yesterday, which is a decent enough time. Dragged my suitcase down to the bus stop which if you remember is not actually a bus stop, just the side of the road. So I am there about 15 minutes early. At 8:55 the bus is still not there. Neither at 9:10. Nor at 9:20. I am starting to get worried. As far fetched as it seems, perhaps the bus was here really early and already left. Or maybe there's another departure point. I ask a girl next to me, she doesn't know. There are other buses going to Valencia, Alicante, Madrid. No one wants to go to Barcelona.

Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, Spain

I go to the ticket counter, where is the bus? They wave me back to the bus stop. There are not very many people there with luggage who look like they might be going to Barcelona also. At 9:45 the bus finally shows up. How can they be so late already this early in the morning? Then after about an hour and a half of travel, I realise, this is the milk run. We spend about 20 minutes on the highway then spend about 40 minutes getting off the highway, into the city center, pick up one person, then get back to the highway for another 20 minutes then another 40 minutes getting to the next podunk town, repeat again and again and again until 6:30 pm. Leon Cathedral, Spain
It's hot on the bus, it's only about 20% full, but I always have someone sitting next to me, we have seat assignments but it never occurs to anyone that they could possibly just find an empty seat somewhere else so we can spread out a bit. I would have done it myself but I was on the window seat and each time I had some fat Spanish dude next to me. We stop once for 25 minutes for a snack, then 45 minutes again for a disgusting roadside diner lunch. yuk.

Seville bullfight schedule 2006

We finally get to Barcelona, I was hoping that perhaps the bus would stop at Sitges along the way seeing as how we have stopped at every other little village along the whole entire coast. Nope. After trying to find Spain's especially well camouflauged metro system, including converting a major rail terminus into a gymnasium but neglecting to remove all of the train signs on it, I finally get on a metro to the main station then manage to get my train to Sitges.
La Mesquita, Cordoba, Spain

It's absolutely packed, I am standing up with my backpack, my luggage, my bullfight poster, we're squashed in there like sardines, it's very hot. Sheesh, and it's a 30 minute train ride. We go about 10 minutes and the train stops. For 45 minutes!!! We are all stuck in there, they won't open the doors because there are other trains going past us, at least the air conditioning is working a little bit. I have some fat German lady next to me who keeps pushing me. I have chosen this very day to carry 2 kg of water in my backpack. I manage to get my backpack off. A girl nearly faints and people make room for her and wave magazines at her. I'd give her some of my water but I can't bend over to get to my backpack because the German lady keeps pushing me.
La Mesquita, Cordoba

After 45 minutes the train starts up again and at the next station like 1 person gets off and about 10 people get on. We wait. We hear shouting. We see some cops run past. We hear shouting. We hear shouting in the different direction from where the cops are running. This is not good. Then we see an extremely drunk guy shouting, followed by an even drunker woman with a totally bashed in face with stitches in. He gets onto our carriage, shouting, he is spraying chunks, the lady's eyes are swollen shut and looks like she is going to hurl. Amazing how much space is immediately made around these two, like sharks in a school of fish. Fortunately they part the sardines like water and go through our carriage to the other end. Everyone is totally relieved and saying things in Spanish which could only be something like, "could it get any worse".

The Alhambra, Granada

Now I am not certain what my stop in Sitges is called. They have a very good system here of naming the metro stops with obscure names, not the name of the town it is in, how sensible would that be. They also have a very good system of not putting up station name signs on the platforms, so even if you know the stop name you can't read it anywhere. At one stop quite a few people get off, but I reckon, after 1.5 hours of standing on the train, that we still haven't gone the 30 minutes the trip is supposed to take. The train leaves, I can now see the ocean. Drats I've missed my stop. Well I can get off and go back. The train keeps going. Forever. And ever. Sheesh man. Finally it stops and whaddya know, there is a sign I can see and it says Sitges! Woohoo!! I find my hotel, it's now 9:00 which is only marginally embarrassingly early to arrive for dinner. And I had a nice dinner!

Alhambra tile detail

So today I will potter around, maybe sit in the sun for only an hour to top up the sunburn, and spend the rest of the day checking out this town. It's got lots of nice places, so I can easily make myself happy here. You don't have to check out of hotels till 12 noon so I will hang here till the last minute then go to Barcelona, check into our hotel and meet Cailli at the metro, which is a risky thing to do, because Cailli, like all mining engineers, has no sense of direction and is forever going in the wrong direction, (even though she can read a map). It'll be fun!